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AA Gill in top coruscating form reviews insider’s Paris Bistro L’Amis de Louis.

Tour Dell Gall

From Bill Clinton to Woody Allen, it seems every American (or Brit) visiting Paris on an expense account has the same favorite “Please don’t write about it” bistro: L’Ami Louis. Given its colonic décor, surly service, unbelievable food, and hefty bill, the restaurant is a true Gallic triumph.
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